Missing out on floating villages in Vietnam 7 years ago, I decided to go have a look at the Ton le sap floating villages. Upon reading Tripadvisor reviews of 'boat scam' at breakfast, it sounded like I'd made the wrong move. Regardless I pressed on anyway, reaching the gravelly dusty port in the Ton le sap canal.
Upon asking the price for a boat ride, I was told USD40. Told the tour operator it was too much, tried to badger an English speaking couple and join them on their tour (for USD20,which the operators said I couldn't do!) then proceeded to walk off down the pebble road to find if anyone would do cheaper. It turns out that the 'port' area was where the tours started, so I returned with my tail between my legs. In the meantime, my tuktuk driver had negotiated a price of USD25, which I accepted.
I had the boat all to myself and the local guide spoke great English. It was fascinating and sad to see the floating village because approximately 40% of them are illegal immigrants and can't go on the mainland. Being illegal, they can't buy land or the more prime parts of the floating village. When I say prime, some areas are deep enough to enable fishing all year round. The lake in the dry season reduces to the size of 3000 sqm and 2m in depth; in the wet season, it is 10,000 sqm and 14 m in depth.To top things off, there is a police boathouse in town, so the illegal then have to pay bribery money to keep on the down low.
All up it was a pleasant, relaxing 90 minute tour up and down the canal through the floating village and out to the lake. I keep forgetting that lakes can be so massive that you can't see the other side!
There is an orphanage and school for young kids, who parents of died of (usually) diarrhoea or fishing accidents. The tour takes you to a floating warehoused where you could 'donate' a 50kg bag of rice for USD50. I said I didn't have enough on me and that I'll bring a bag of rice from a super market if I visit the village again. I ended up donating a 10-pack of water for USD5 to the school, which was reasonable (1 500mL bottle is about USD0.50) and I got to drop off at the school. Luckily the kids were eating the their lunch so I didn't interrupt their schooling. You can also go in a kayak amongst the mangroves but at USD20, I just wasn't prepared to spend too much money that day.
WAT ATHVEA
With the floating villages done, I visited Wat Athvea. This was Jim's recommendation, so I made sure I stopped there. It was as he said - quiet, off the beaten track with some ruins of a former temple. There were some kids who wouldn't let me into the ruins unless I paid them. I did swing a few kids around like a helicopter but hightailed it out of there when there were trying to touch my camera and my pockets. One thought I had money in my pocket, so he was quite excited and yelling it to the other kids. I totally cut him down when I put my hand in my pocket and gave him my snotty tissues :D Harsh, but oh well. I walked around the side and went in that way (HA!).
I arrived back at the hotel at 1pm, then proceeded to walk to Pub St for lunch. Decided on The Red Piano and enjoyed penne (yes, I didn't feel like eating Cambo food) and a mixed fruit smoothie with banana, apple, pineapple and dragonfruit. These guys love their dragonfruit! Sat outside watching the locals tout their tuktuk and beggars follow the obvious tourists (fair skinned foreigners)
A guy riding his bike called Dave had cycled up and down the street, then stopped to check out The Red Piano. I offered for him to sit down and check out the drinks menu, which he thought was a great idea. He is an interesting guy, who is a musician back home in LA and has played for the likes of Cyndi Lauper and a few other bands that sounded familiar but I didn't know them. He kind of reminded me of a Jamaican looking version of Jyana's husband JOhn, but with bright pricing blue eyes. Anyway he was performing that night in one of the clubs, so why not come check it out? I replied that I would be at the circus but that sounded like a great idea and exchanged emails and FB.
I bummed around walking and shopping, then walked home. I have a scarf count of 9 at the moment, so I better lay off the scarves now. Sorry Myanmar!
PHARE
If you are ever in SIem Reap, you must MUST go see the Cambodian circus. It is the equivalent of Cirque du Soleil, in a very intimate tent setting, less polished but much more passionate. The show I saw was called Sokha, which is the story of a young girl going through the Khmer Rouge years nada how she overcame adversity to build a new life and help others. It is loosely based on the owner's past and current experiences.
The artists were so lively and fun, the musical score was in the traditional Khmer style but with an electronic twist and the on-stage artist painting each scene was super talented.
For further info, check out this link: Phare - Cambodian Circus
This is also the night that I freaking sprained my ankle by sliding down the steep sloped pavement and onto the road. I had thought to get a tuktuk but decided to enjoy the walk back to the hotel after the show. F*&k me. Ankle photos are on FB, so won't be reuploading them here :)
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